Fritura malagueña: what Málaga-style fried fish really is

Fried fish is the thing people order most along the Málaga seafront, and the thing menus explain worst. Part of the reason is that a fritura malagueña does not always contain the same fish. It is not a fixed recipe. It is a way of frying.

What it actually is

A fritura malagueña is a platter of mixed fish, cut small, dusted in flour and fried in very hot oil for a very short time. What defines it is what it leaves out: no egg, no beer batter, no breadcrumbs, no tempura. Flour, salt and olive oil.

That plainness is exactly the difficulty. When the coating is a thin film of flour, there is nowhere to hide fish that is not fresh or oil that has been working too long.

Why the flour matters

The flour is sifted and shaken off, because the aim is a film rather than a crust. The oil has to be deep and properly hot before the fish goes in, so the surface seals at once and the inside cooks in its own steam instead of soaking.

You can tell within one bite. Oily fingers mean the oil was not hot enough. Dry fish means it sat too long, either in the pan or on the platter before reaching the table.

Which fish go in

It depends on the market and the season, which is why no two houses serve the same platter. The usual suspects in Málaga are:

• Boquerón victoriano, the local anchovy, the fish most associated with the city.
• Squid and baby squid, in rings or whole depending on size.
• Red mullet and horse mackerel, stronger in flavour.
• Small hake, the mildest thing on the platter.
• Prawns and king prawns, where the house includes them.
• Marinated dogfish, though that one leans towards Cádiz.

Asking what is in today’s fritura is not fussy, it is the right question. In a kitchen working with fresh fish the answer changes week to week.

How to order it and how to eat it

It goes in the middle of the table and everyone shares. Eat it hot and with your fingers for the small pieces. Squeeze the lemon as you go rather than over the whole platter at once: fish sitting in juice softens the flour and undoes the frying.

If there are only two of you, a single-fish portion makes more sense than a full platter.

On our menu

At La Piratería the fritura malagueña is meant for sharing and sits in the Frituras section. Alongside it you will find single-fish portions, if you would rather go straight to one thing:

• Lemon anchovies
• Baby squid
• Hake
• Squid
• King prawns

All of them declare the same allergens: fish, gluten and crustaceans. You can see the full menu, with the price and allergens of every dish, before you come.

Common questions

Does fritura malagueña contain egg?
No. The fish is dusted in dry flour. A puffy or deep golden batter means egg or beer, and that is a different dish.

How many people is one platter?
Ours is built for a table to share, either as the centre of the meal or alongside other dishes. For one or two people, a single-fish portion fits better.

Is there a gluten-free version?
No. The flour contains gluten and the fish is fried in shared oil. If someone at the table is coeliac, mention it when you book and the team will point you to what does work.

Is it the same as pescaíto frito?
In practice, yes. «Pescaíto frito» is what people say and «fritura malagueña» is what menus write.

Where to eat it

We are at C/ Pacífico 29, on the seafront promenade facing La Misericordia beach. Fried fish is better on the terrace, which opens straight onto the promenade, and it is worth checking how to get here if you are driving.