Fried fish in Málaga: where to eat it away from the centre

Fried fish is the first thing most people go looking for when they arrive in Málaga hungry. And most of them end up in the same few streets in the centre, between the Alameda and Calle Larios. You can eat well there. You will also eat fast, with noise all around you and a plate that has already gone lukewarm, because someone is waiting for your table. There is another way to do it, and it is three kilometres away.

What goes into a real Málaga fritura

A fritura malagueña is not a plate of calamari. It is a mix of small pieces, each with its own time in the oil, fried in the same pan and served together on one plate. The usual line-up is anchovy, squid or baby squid, hake cut into strips, and prawns. Many kitchens add the shrimp fritter, which is not fish but belongs to the same family.

The coating is fine frying flour and nothing else. No egg, no tempura, no breadcrumbs. The fish is dusted, the excess is shaken off, and it goes straight into the oil. If what arrives has a thick shell that crunches like fried chicken, it may well taste good, but it is not a Málaga fritura.

On our menu the fritura malagueña is 33 euros and is meant to be shared. If there are two of you and you want something smaller, the fried dishes also come on their own: lemon-marinated anchovies, hake and baby squid at 13.50, and squid or king prawns at 14.90. The shrimp fritter is 6 euros.

The oil is most of the difference

Frying comes down to two variables: how hot the oil is and how long the fish stays in it. The oil works at around 180 degrees. Below that, the fish does not seal, it soaks up fat and comes out soft. Above it, the flour browns before the inside is cooked.

The other half of the job is how much fish goes in at once. Overload the fryer and the temperature drops hard, which gives you exactly the same result as starting with cold oil. That is why good fried fish comes out in batches, and why it reaches the table a minute after leaving the oil rather than five minutes later.

How to tell good fried fish from bad

• Your fingers. Pick up an anchovy with your hand. If your fingers come away greasy, the oil was not hot enough. Properly fried fish is finger food and it does not leave a mark.
• The paper. Look at the paper under the fish after two minutes. A wide oil ring tells you the same thing your fingers did.
• The colour. Pale gold and uneven, with lighter patches. A dark, uniform brown usually means tired oil or too long in the fryer.
• The smell. It should smell of fish and clean oil. If it smells stale, that oil has fried too many services.
• The clock. Eat it straight away. Fried fish left sitting for ten minutes goes soft and there is no bringing it back.

Why eat it away from the centre

The centre has good places and it has the usual problem: a lot of people in very little space. That pushes kitchens to work ahead, and fried fish is precisely the dish that suffers most from waiting.

Three kilometres west, in Huelin, the promenade is wider and far less crowded. There is free street parking, which near La Malagueta simply does not exist. You can walk here from the centre in about forty minutes along the seafront, flat and without crossing traffic, or drive it in ten.

Where we are

La Piratería is at C/ Pacífico 29 in Huelin, opening onto the promenade opposite La Misericordia beach. The terrace faces the sea and we have high chairs. There is an indoor dining room for windy days, and the levante is the one forecast worth checking before you set off.

We open Sunday to Thursday from 12:30 to 23:30, and Friday and Saturday from 12:30 to 00:00. You can look at the menu with prices and allergens, check how to find us, or call 641 47 14 13.

Frequently asked questions

How many people does the fritura malagueña feed?
It is a sharing dish. For two it works as a main course; for three or four it works as part of a table with other things on it.

Can I order just one kind of fish?
Yes. Lemon anchovies, hake, baby squid, squid and king prawns are all listed separately.

Is there parking?
Free street parking throughout the Pacífico area. Allow extra time at weekends and in summer.

Do I need to book?
For a terrace table at the weekend, yes. It is the first thing to fill up.